Photo 16: The so called 5 o'clock shadows are now applied. This is basically the beard area. Note that even these need to be highlighted since any H/L applied here will be partly covered when the washes are applied. This part was done with a mix of some grey, black and a little dark blue. Great care needs to be taken here. If not done correctly this step may ruin all the hard work you have done already. The ratio of dilution needs to be very high. In fact you will just have dirty water and it is to be applied in controlled layers.
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Photos 17/18/19: The finished face with the mouth and lips painted in. The inside of the mouth was given a wash of gloss varnish.
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Photos 20/21: The painting of the red tunic was practically done with the same techniques described. With red I always like to start with a rather dark colour and then work on the highlights. With this red I wanted a faded look so I added AV845 for the final highlights. The mixes for this and other colours will follow at the end of the tutorial.
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Photos 22 - 27: The painting of the armour was rather lengthy since I proceeded in a different manner than usual. The undercoat here was a very dark brown (AV822). I firstly painted the armour in acrylics with all the highlights and shadows. At this stage the armour will not look right but no panic here. Just a few more steps and it will make all the difference. The next step was to take an enamel metallic colour by IDEA Metallici No.140 and thin it down with white spirit. The consistency is that of the shadows applied in acrylics, with only a hint of paint present. With this I applied a thin wash over all the metallic areas. With the mix being so thin all the shadows and highlights from the acrylics coat will show through. Leave this to dry thoroughly after which the deepest shadows are enforced in oils (burnt umber) and feathered with a dry brush.
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Photo 28: Colours used for the metallic parts.
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Photo 29: Colours used for the white leather straps.
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